March 16th, 2023
The skin is the largest organ in the body, but it can also be the most sensitive. Over time, searches online related to Rosacea have significantly increased, and it is claimed that around 1 in 20 people in the UK are thought to develop rosacea.1
This topic has also become prevalent in the products we see today on shelves, and the opportunities brands have to tap into these sensitive skin markets. However, it can often feel like a minefield with so many ingredients in the market to help treat this condition (as we know, rosacea is a long-term condition that can be worked with to reduce inflammation but cannot be fully cured).
But first, what is Rosacea?
Rosacea is a sensitive, inflammation-led skin condition that primarily affects the central face, causing symptoms such as persistent redness, flushing, visible blood vessels, and sometimes acne-like bumps or eye irritation.
It can be aggravated by the sun, stress, diet, cold weather/wind and of course, when it comes into contact with cosmetics and creams, with many people suffering reactions, sore or tight skin.
To help combat this, there are many soothing ingredients perfect for Rosacea-prone skin to help reduce symptoms and build up the skin's barrier protection too, to become more resilient. But what are these ingredients, and how can they help?
We’ve put together a top ingredients list when it comes to formulating for rosacea-prone, sensitive skin types to have a look at essential and trending ingredients for this market.
Niacinamide
First up, we recommend the very well-established Niacinamide. Clinically proven, it helps to strengthen the skin barrier, improves hydration, reduces sensitivity, and supports collagen protection, helping skin and scalp stay healthy, balanced, and resilient. Check out our Niacinamide PC Natural by dsm-firmenich an exclusive grade that is 60% naturally derived.
Azelaic Acid
Next up is a key ingredient perfect for reducing inflammation, redness and clearing rosacea-related bumps and spots. Looking at Azenova by Vantage, allows formulators to have a ready-to-use gel that incorporates seamlessly into emulsions or gel systems typically used for leave-on skincare.
Ceramides
Ceramides are the building blocks of resilient skin, something that needs to be closely addressed for those with Rosacea. These are lipids that rebuild and protect the skin barrier to reduce moisture loss and prevent future skin flare-ups. There are even botanical options such as PHYTO CERAMIDYL OMEGA N by Cobiosa, rich in omega-rich lipids to rebuild, rebalance and visibly smooth the skin.
Cica (Centella asiatica)
Stemming from the emergence of the K-Beauty trend, Cica (or tiger grass) has found its way into many products on the shelf to help sensitive skin. Brands like Dr Jart, La Roche-Posay and No 7. With a number of active compounds, this plant extract helps keep the skin barrier healthy and helps soothe the signs of red, distressed skin. Adaptogen Fermbiotic S includes this wonderful extract along with some great data on collagen production, balancing skin microbiome and supporting skin cell renewal and repair.
Hyaluronic Acid
An almost obvious one, Hyaluronic Acid has been referred to as the holy grail of hydration for the skin and is almost expected in skincare today as a baseline. This hydrating humectant helps to provide clean, lightweight hydration without pore-clogging properties and helps prevent facial flushing (which can be caused by moisture loss in the skin). HYALURONIC ACID-BT by dsm-firmenich is a high-purity sodium hyaluronate, perfect for formulations that aim to moisturise and improve skin smoothness and elasticity in the skin.
Panthenol
Panthenol acts as an immediate anti-inflammatory and is also known as pro-vitamin B5. At Adina, we’re proud to have D-Panthenol by dsm-firmenich which is the pro-vitamin of D-pantothenic acid. It’s highly valued in skincare (and haircare) for its moisturising, soothing and strengthening properties and claims to reduce redness and relieve sensitive skin.
New releases from our portfolio that help soothe rosacea and sensitive skin…
This year we’re excited to announce dsm-firmenich’s latest GLYCARE® SK COMFORT that supports the skin’s resilience against daily environmental stressors. Using a very clever technology, a bio-identical Human Milk Oligosacharide (sodium Sialyllactose) which is inspired by mother’s milk and its protective role. It uses a smart microbiome to balance, promote barrier reinforcement/ hydration and reduce redness in sensitive skin, including those with Rosacea.
Alpaflor® Neurosooth
This ingredient by dsm-firmenich, is also brand new for this year and helps tackle both climate aggressors on the skin and, more interestingly, emotional triggers. So not only does it protect the skin against things like heat stress but calms the skin and sends comfort signals to the brain.
ALGAKTIV BioSKN
Although this particular ingredient is good for anti-acne purposes, many rosacea sufferers do have a cross between the two also known as Acne-Rosacea and will have spots and pustules to contend with. ALGAKTIV BioSKN works with the skin to promote cell renewal, has anti-acne properties, soothing elements and rejuvenates the skin. Find out more here.
If you’d like to talk to us about a project you have for Rosacea-prone or sensitive skin or a completely new project – get in touch and chat with one of our experts at sales@adina.co.uk. Whether you’re an emerging or established brand, we are here to help with your ingredient selection, formulation advice, regulatory advice, manufacturing options and getting your product through from concept to shelf.
1 - https://patient.info/skin-conditions/skin-rashes/rosacea
March 16th, 2023
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