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FORMULATIONS

Cherishd Blueberry Whip

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The Upcycled Beauty Company

Containing over 99.25% upcycled content this Blueberry Whip is light and airy on application. This celebrates the current arena of Upcycling ingredients.

1)     Prepare the water phase (high shear the seabalance). This can be done cold or it is generally a bit quicker if the product has been heated. The seabalance will thicken up the product.

2)     Prepare the two oils and integrate into the water phase under high shear.

3)     This O/W premix is then heated to about 65oC

4)     Prepare the butter/wax phase (which molten then kept at about 70oC).

5)     Transfer the Butter/Wax phase to high shear

6)     Slowly incorporate the water phase (slow trickle pour to start). Initial pouring of the first phase is slow so as not to risk solidifying the waxes/butter.

7)     While under high shear (if not already prepared). Premix the final colour/fragrance phase (I tend to do this while the waxes are melting using a magnetic stirrer).

8)     On the cool down, transfer product (should be like a thick emulsion) to a paddle stirrer

9)     At 60oC pour in fragrance/colour/white rice crush in glycerine mix and mix until looking homogenous. High shear for 2 minutes to ensure powder dispersion.

Paddle stir until cool and set aside

Whipping:

10)  Set the formulation aside for 30 minutes.

11) Prepare Electric whisk

12)  Whisk the product.

13)  Once at the right whipped texture, incorporate into beakers. This usually needs a spatula to assist.

14)  Set aside and leave overnight. The product should still have retained meringue like peaks the next morning

Formulation

Trade Name
INCI Name
Function
%
Vendor
  • Water Phase - Phase 1
    • Water
      Aqua
      Solvent
      QS
    • Seabalance 2000
      Pentylene Glycol, Sargassum Fluitans/Natans Extract, Xanthan Gum
      seaweed-based cosmetic O/W emulsifier. It delivers performance like that of a synthetic emulsifier while being completely natural.
      2.75
      CarbonWave
    • Hydra-Leen 5 Rose Bio
      Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Pentylene Glycol
      Hydra-Leen 5 Rose Bio can be used in all type of formulations (even up to 100%) and is adapted to all skin types. Hydra-Leen 5 Rose BIO has the following properties: Antioxidant and toning properties; Refreshes, soothes skin prone to redness; Powerful and fresh scent, bringing the sweet smell of rose to your formulation. Hydra-Leen 5 Rose BIO is COSMOS approved and free of listed preservatives.
      25
      Minasolve
    • Barley TONIQ™
      Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract, Propanediol
      Made from upcycled barley, Barley TONIQ™ is a potent active that works to rebalance irritated skin. It soothes redness by up to 23% (in just 2 hours), with impressive results at low use levels. The result? Visibly calmer, happier and healthier skin
      3
      The Upcycled Beauty Company
    • Gin TONIQ™
      Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate, Glycerine
      Locks in 3 X MORE moisture than glycerine alone Delivers long-lasting hydration (up to 8 hours) Helps to protect skin from dehydration Helps calm & soothe stressed-out skin
      3
      The Upcycled Beauty Company
    • A-Leen 5
      Pentylene Glycol
      A multifunctional ingredient that provides broad spectrum antimicrobial properties. This Preservative also acts as an emollient and Skin humectant.
      4.8
      Minasolve
  • First Oil Phase
    • Rosehip Oil
      Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed
      ROSEHIP SEED OIL is a natural, cold pressed vegetable oil. It contains oleic, linoleic and linolenic fatty acids which are essential for cell membranes and tissue regeneration. ROSEHIP SEED OIL spreads easily, offers great penetration and significant moisture retention.
      1
      Vantage
    • Blueberry NECTA™
      Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil
      Blueberry NECTA™ is a natural source of pro-retinol (vitamin A). Topical retinoids in general have a well-documented effect on skin health including visible improvements in fine wrinkles, skin smoothness and hyperpigmentation of photodamaged skin.
      5
      The Upcycled Beauty Company
  • Second Oil Phase
    • OLIFEEL E-Nat W/O
      Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate
      Developed from olive oil derivatives Olifeel® E-NAT W/O allows the easy formulation of stable emulsions W/O.
      3
      ROELMI HPC
    • Organic Mango Butter
      Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
      A creamy butter packed full of antioxidants, vitamins A, C, & E and essential fatty acids that helps provide body and depth to this formulation.
      18
      The Soapery
    • ABS Acai Sterols EFA
      Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Linolenic Acid
      Derived from the lipid fraction of acai, this waxy balm can be used as a natural replacement for synthetic and animal-derived materials, such as petrolatum and lanolin. Ideal for increasing hydration and enhancing barrier function.
      1
      Active Concepts
    • Rice Bran Wax
      Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
      This wax is created from the by-product of the rice husks from Rice Bran Oil production. This enhances emulsion texture with a silky, non-sticky feel while providing skin conditioning and antioxidant benefits
      2.85
    • Berry Wax
      Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera
      This is a soft wax that acts as an emollient. Harvested from the peel of the Sumac plant, a by-product of the spice industry, this is an easily emulsifiable wax, it helps with skin conditioning and stabilising products.
      3
      Naturally Balmy
  • Phase 3 - colour and fragrance
    • White Rice CRUSH™ Active
      Oryza Sativa Starch
      Acting as a sensory enhancer, this material provides oil absorbency within this formulation and acts as an ideal silicone replacement to offer a more silky feel to the product.
      4.65
      The Upcycled Beauty Company
    • Vegetable Glycerine
      Glycerine
      This humectant is also used to help disperse powders in preparation to integrate within formulation.
      4.25
    • Natpure Xfine Spirulina
      Spirulina Platensis Extract, Trehalose, Sodium Citrate
      Natural Colour additive
      0.05
      Sensient Beauty
    • Natpure Xfine Red Radish RR318
      Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Root Extract, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin
      Natural colour additive
      0.05
      Sensient Beauty
    • True Blueberry
      A Cosmos certifiable natural Blueberry fragrance
      0.5
      Essencia